Dead/Red Ringed Xbox 360 you don’t mind cannibalising.
Well, I say modification but I really mean little more than soldering a few wires and altering a.
The wireless transceiver in the Xbox can be made to work with a little modification. This is the key to getting the controller working with a PC. Now if you’re like me, and have a spare wireless controller sitting around, it’s likely you have a dead red ringed Xbox 360 sitting in a cupboard. I was thinking that there may be some other RF transceiver that could be modified or adapted to work with it. As I’m tight on cash right now I figured I’d have a quick look around to see if there was a way to use a wireless controller on the PC without going out and buying the official wireless transceiver. Yesterday I had a thought – I don’t like having a wire to the Xbox360 controller I use for games on my PC. Update 5: Further testing on alternative syncing method shows how non-play & charge kit compatible peripherals can be synced -without- a microcontroller. Update 4: Alternative means of syncing mentioned in the comments by George. You can find the related forum post here: Link (and see how my thrown together version of it looks and. However, I am working with another modification I found which adds LED and sync enable functions by means of a serial connection with a PIC16F628A μC. Update 2: It seems that syncing is impossible directly from the RF module and PC, but if the wireless controller you use was already synced with the RF module, and hasn’t been re-synced with another Xbox since, it will work. I also added actual photos of the wiring now, as I’ve redone it (hence the messy wires from re-soldering Etc.) Two diodes in series take the voltage down to almost exactly 3.3V, which is the required voltage for the RF board. Update: I updated the post to mention using two 1N4001 or equivalent diodes instead of just one. I really hope this helps anyone else out there with the same issues as me.Please note that I barely pay attention to this site anymore and is only here for archive purposes. Products: Windows 10 Anniversary Update and Later Servicing Drivers,Windows 10 S and Later Servicing Drivers What actually fixed it was a NEWER, entirely different (and deceptively named) driver in the Update Catalog. I figured out that you can use the “Have disk…” option in the driver update dialog to force the install, but that still didn’t fix it - Device Manager correctly identified the device as “Xbox Wireless Adapter”, but it showed error code 10 and still failed to work.
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